In a large pot, combine the orange juice, pineapple juice, lime juice, vinegar, ½ cup of the salt, the smashed garlic, brown sugar, shoyu, oregano, thyme, peppercorns, lemon halves, cumin, and 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Pour the marinade into a gallon-size zip-top plastic bag or large bowl. Add the chicken wings to the cooled marinade, cover, and refrigerate overnight.
Prepare a gas or charcoal grill for direct, medium-high-heat grilling. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons salt, the ground black pepper, and the cayenne. Remove the chicken wings from the marinade and lay them on the paper towel–lined pan; blot them dry with more paper towels. Sprinkle the wings with the salt mixture on all sides and grill, turning often, until charred and cooked through, about 20 minutes.
Transfer the chicken wings to a serving platter and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve with the barbecue sauce alongside.
Cider-Molasses Barbecue Sauce
Makes about 4 cups
3 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons ancho chile powder
1½ pounds plum tomatoes, halved, seeded, and chopped
½ cup tomato paste
2 cups apple cider
1 cup chicken stock, plus more as needed
½ cup red wine vinegar
½ cup packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons blackstrap molasses
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large saucepan, heat the canola oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring, until lightly caramelized, about 15 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons water to the pan and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. When the water has cooked off, add the garlic and chile powder and cook, stirring frequently, for 2 minutes more, then add the chopped tomatoes and tomato paste, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring frequently, for 4 to 5 minutes more.
Add the cider, stock, vinegar, brown sugar, and molasses. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and has the texture of ketchup, about 30 minutes.
Working in batches, carefully transfer the sauce to a blender and puree until smooth (alternatively, you can blend the sauce directly in the pot using an immersion blender). If the sauce is too thick, thin it with an extra splash of stock; if it’s too thin, return it to the pot and cook over low heat until it reaches the desired consistency.
Season the sauce with salt and pepper and strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean bowl, pushing the sauce through the strainer with a rubber spatula.
The sauce can be used immediately or transferred to a lidded jar and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. Warm the sauce over low heat before using it on the wings or brushing it onto grilled chicken or pork chops.
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